DIY Travel: The Deep South USA

What is “The Deep South USA”? Most people say it covers the following states: Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina. In addition, some people also include Tennessee because of its history of slavery and its prominence in cotton production. We agree, however, we don’t include Florida (it has its own post) or Texas, which some people also include. So, our official definition is Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina and Tennessee.

Not exactly the SEC definition, but these days fooball conferences don’t seem to align with any historic definition. We are also going to talk a little bit about Kentucky and North Carolina, because we love bourbon and we love the mountains in North Carolina, even though we can’t include either in the official definition. Surprisingly, no one wants to include Virginia, and we agree. We placed it in the Mid-Atlantic Region, despite the fact that Richmond was the Capitol of the Confederacy.

Cos and Robin’s 2019 Trip Thru The Deep South USA

Robin and I are both Yankees (okay Robin is from New England, but I still call her a Yankee), so learning about the South was new to us when we both moved to Florida in 2000. We quickly learned the ways of the South as we found it critical to be successful to work here. But we didn’t really understand the culture and the history of the South as we weren’t taught it up North. That is when we decided in 2019 to do a tour of the Civil Rights trail. Okay, true confession, we were also following the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail in Alabama, but more on that later.

So, in 2019 we set out to discover the Deep South USA. Our trip was more than just following the Civil Rights Trail, which as you can see as defined below is much broader than just the Deep South USA. We also wanted to see places where slavery began. So, Savannah in Georgia and Natchez in Mississippi (the two central slavery trading locations) were critical places to visit to put East and West borders for our trip.

Also, as we said earlier, we don’t really call Florida part of the Deep South USA, but since we live near Jacksonville it became the starting and ending point of our trip. Also, Jacksonville, unlike most of the southern part of Florida, in many ways is attached to the culture of The Deep South as it sadly participated in the Jim Crow culture.

The History and Culture of the Deep South

What sets The Deep South culturally different from other regions in the USA is primarily agriculture and slavery. The south remained mostly rural, small community, industrialized, less urbanized than the rest of the country until after WWII. In the Deep South, the land was prime for growing cotton, rice and tobacco. These were products that could be grown most profitably in a plantation type of structure, which required a cheap work force. Thus, slavery became essential to the plantation owners to be be successful farmers.

Other factors, such as the emergence of the “Bible Belt” culture created community structures centered around the evangical local church. This helped to further solidify the closed in nature of the Deep South culture.

From the 1860s until the 1960s, despite the end of slavery, the Jim Crow culture of the Deep South allowed for a continuation of the negative treatment of the African Americans who at the start of the 20th century represented 45% of the Deep South population. Fortunately, the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s helped to finally end the unfair treatment of the African American people.

The Civil Rights Trail

The United States Civil Rights Trail is a non-linear heritage trail primarily in the Southern United States that provides visitors with historical event descriptions about the civil rights movement at various landmarks. One way to help anchor and historically define the Deep South is to understand the core elements of the US Civil Rights trail. You can do this by visiting the historic black churches, school museums, civil right’s leaders homes, courthouses, and other landmarks which highlight the fight for civil rights.

A large number of the places we visited on our Deep South tour were identified on the Civil Rights Trail. Following are the places we visited on our tour and found to be both educational and fun to visit.

The Deep South USA: Georgia

As we start our tour of the Deep South USA, our first stop as we crossed the Florida/Georgia Line is Savannah.

Savannah, Georgia

Savannah is a beautiful city in Georgia that offers a variety of tourist attractions for different interests and tastes. Each year, Savannah attracts millions of visitors to its cobblestone streets, parks, and notable historic buildings. It is the unofficial site of the largest St. Patrick’s Day celebration in the South and is also noteworthy for Halloween festivities. Visitors can explore historical sites, museums, art galleries, parks, monuments, and cemeteries.  

The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is a Roman Catholic cathedral located in Savannah, Georgia. It is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Savannah. The cathedral was dedicated on April 30, 1876, and has since undergone several renovations and restorations. It is known for its beautiful stained glass windows, intricate murals, and ornate architecture .

Savannah’s Grid and Square Layout

The city is laid out in a grid pattern with squares and broad streets. Savannah’s squares are a unique feature of the city’s urban design. The original plan (now known as the Oglethorpe Plan) was part of a larger regional plan that included gardens, farms, and “out-lying villages.” Once the four wards were developed in the mid-1730s, two additional wards were laid. Additional squares were added during the late 18th and 19th centuries, and by 1851 there were 24 squares in the city. Johnson Square is one of the most prominent historic squares and, like all the squares, provides a great park setting.

Savannah, the East Coast Center of the Slave Trade

Savannah was a major port for the transatlantic slave trade. Although Savannah’s participation in the slave trade was initially minuscule, the port of Savannah has historical transnational importance as a receiver of enslaved West Africans during the late eighteenth century. Despite a ban on African slavery in early Georgia, enslaved people and slavery were an integral part of the colony’s development. The repeal of the ban on African slavery marked the beginning of Savannah’s involvement in the Atlantic slave trade. It was not uncommon to see buying and selling of the slaves downtown near the cotton market. The statue of the slave family reminds us of the history of slave trading in the city.

Savannah’s Cemetaries

Although there are three cemetaries in Savannah, most people want to visit the Bonaventure Cemetary. This is known as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. We would agree, although we are far from experts on cemetaries. Most guests want to visit this as they may be familiar with John Berendt’s bestseller “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. The Bird Girl statue on the cover of this book was originally in Bonaventure Cemetary, but was relocated to Telfair Academy.

Savannah, Great Restaurants

Savannah has great restaurants. Some are historic, with traditional fare, like the famous Olde Pink House where we had a great New Year’s Day brunch. Originally, this elegant Colonial mansion was white paint over bricks, then finally painted pink after getting tired of the red brick bleeding through the paint. Each room has an aura of dining in a private home.  The food is classic Southern, think shrimp and grits, crab and sausage spring rolls. Don’t miss the bar in the basement with live piano music.  Great feel.

Others, like Alligator Soul, offer a more modern cuisine. Once a basement grain warehouse, this intimate Southern eatery uses organic and local ingredients. Chef Hilary and Maureen Craig founded Alligator Soul in 2003.  This romantic, elegant restaurant features alligator prominently.  Additionally, it offers wild boar, elk, antelope, kangaroo, ostrich, game birds and red deer, subject to availability.  We really liked it.

Husk Restaurant is another all time favorites of ours. Located in the Savannah Historic Landmark District, executive chef Chris Hathcock transforms the essence of Southern food and highlights the unique ingredients of coastal Georgia. Featuring southern fare & cocktails it is housed in a landmark mansion with porch seating. Chef Sean Brock, a James Beard Award winner founded this Husk, as well as other Husk group of restaurants. Sit at the bar for a happening scene.

The Grey: occupying a 1928 art deco Greyhound Bus Terminal, Mashama Bailey is a two time James Beard award winner. This is an absolutely wonderful experience, from food, drinks, service and ambiance.  The story of this restaurant is a fascinating study in race. The owners co-authored the book called “Black, White and the Grey Chef”.

Savannah’s Hotel/ Museum Scene

Savannah has an excellent selection of great hotels. One of our favorites is the The JW Marriott. It is located in the Savannah Plant Riverside District that was once a power plant. Recently, It has become a contemporary riverside retreat while retaining its historical architectural features. There are three unique buildings which house everything from chic architecture in the Power Plant to romantic styling in t he Three Muses and contemporary maritime details in the Atlantic .

Atlanta, Georgia

Just as we started the Deep South USA Tour in Savannah, we ended it in Atlanta, Georgia. Atlanta is a vibrant city that has many people buzzing. Millions swing by yearly to Georgia’s capital city to learn of its historical significance and get a taste of its vibrant culture.  We have visited Atlanta many times both for business trips and more recently to experience the fun and excitement of the city.

World of Coca-Cola Museum

The World of Coca-Cola is a museum located in Atlanta, Georgia, showcasing the history of The Coca-Cola Company. We had some gret pictures of us taken on the front of a coke machine.

Martin Luther King Memorial

The Martin Luther King Jr. National Historical Park is located in Atlanta, Georgia. Several of the buildings related to the life and legacy of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. are part of this memorial. The park includes his birth home, the Ebenezer Baptist Church (the place of his baptism; also MLK Jr. served as co-pastor with his father here), and the King Center for Nonviolent Social Change. It is here where you will find his tomb and a museum dedicated to his life and work .

Ebenezer Church

Ebenezer Baptist Church is an historic church in Atlanta, Georgia, that was the spiritual home of Rev. Martin Luther King, Jr.

Stone Mountain

Reflecting a very separate and recently controversial view of the Deep South is the carving of Stone Mountain. Stone Mountain is a quartz monzonite dome monadnock and the site of Stone Mountain Park, 16 miles (26 km) east of Atlanta, Georgia. The park is the most visited tourist site in the state of Georgia. The mountain has a Confederate Memorial Carving depicting three Confederate leaders, Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and Stonewall Jackson. 

Also included at the park are some wonderful additional features. A professional carillonneur plays the Carillion with a keyboard much like an organ. It provides a wonderful musical background around the beautiful lake. The Grist Mill and the October Pumpkin clock were also magnificent.

A sample of our favorite Atlanta restaurants

Hal’s The Steakhouse: A classic old school steakhouse & lounge patio with throwback vibe.  Think Sinatra. An all-around great experience, this is what Sinatra would have loved.  Sometimes music.  Always a buzz. You must go.

The Optimist Serves great seafood in a formerly gritty warehouse. Chef Ford Fry’s seafood heavy crown in landlocked Atlanta.  As someone who loves seafood, this is a must.

H&F Burger was once voted the US best cheeseburger by the Food Network. This gastropub makes everything from scratch even their delicious ketchup. Years ago, the reason you came here for a late meal was the lottery for the 25 burgers served at 10:00; it always sold out. We recommend small plates of Deviled Eggs Three Ways or the Pork Slider.

Canoe, “tucked away along the peaceful banks of the Chattahoochee River” is the gorgeous setting with wonderful food and drinks. Should you eat inside? Yes. Should you eat outside? Yes Yes. Who can choose?

Bistro Niko. a French bistro right on Peachtree Road NE overlooking the hustle and bustle of Buckhead with everything you want in French food. I love the setting and its convenience. And its oysters.

The Deep South USA: South Carolina

Speaking of the SEC, while in Columbia, we sat in the rain and watched the Florida Gators Football Team destroy the USC Gamecocks. That was back in 2019. Since then, the Gamecocks have become somewhat more competitive.

Charleston’s Spoleto Festival

For 17 days and nights each spring, Soleto Festival USA fills this gorgeous place with performing arts, concerts and parties. “It will not be like most Festivals…but a unique and fertile ground for the young, and a dignified home for the masters” according to Gian Carlo Menotti on his founding vision for Spoleto in 1977. This is internationally recognized as America’s performing arts festival. But it is even more successful because it is located in Charleston with its historical architecture, charming performance venues and extraordinary restaurants. It is unlike any other festival you have attended, I promise!

A Sample of Charleston’s Great Restaurants

Charleston, like Savannah has so many great restaurants. Here are just a few of our favorites:

Slightly North of Broad (SNOB) is classic Lowcountry, with shrimp and grits, oyster stew, Carolina Gold dirty rice and steamed clams in a great setting on East Bay Street. You must have a reservation at this popular spot, an institution, a favorite for the past 20 years.

Hall’s Chophouse is their original fine steak restaurant, now also located in Columbia, Greenville, Nexton and Nashville. In addition, they are also known for their gospel brunch, complete with a choir performance.

Pearlz is one of our favorite oyster places, a high energy seafood restaurant. Amen Street Fish & Raw Bar is another, with their oyster specials, who could go wrong?

Leon’s Oyster Shop is a must-do for its filling-station style patio and excellent Southern goodies.

The Grocery is a little away from downtown, but still walkable. Great food, especially vegetables in a sparse setting.

FIG (Food is Good) is run by James Beard Award winner Jason Stanhope who combines American Southern and French cuisine in this intimate little restaurant.

Husk in Charleston was the first one, founded by Sean Brock (others are in Nashville, Greenville and Savannah). However, new executive chef Ray England is equally noteworthy for his lighter creative Southern menu.

Marbled & Fin: from the team behind some of the Southeast’s most notable concepts, including Husk, Minero, Delaney Oyster House, and The James, The Neighborhood Dining Group expands its impressive restaurant portfolio with its first-ever steakhouse concept. The concept brings the company’s signature hospitality to a modern interpretation of classic fine dining.

Our list would not be complete without The Tattooed Moose, that incredable funky place with Mike’s Famous Duck Club. Even Guy Fieri went nuts over this sandwich. Duck, tomatoes, garlic aioli on to-die-for bread. Yum!

Greenville

This is a city with a remarkable story. For this post, we will concentrate on the pivotal decision that changed the course of this city. While is was fortunate to have Furman University, Bob Jones University and Greenville Technical College, the decision was made to remove the Camperdown Bridge which was smack dab in the middle of town. Once completed, the downtown focus became Reedy Falls, a gem of a prize for this city. The story of the development is well documented in this article Downtown Reborn. Visiting Greenville is always a treat. The restaurant scene is becoming as rich as that of Charleston, with many Charleston restaurants recoginizing this with addtional locations in Greenville. Do not miss this city in your travels!

The South USA: North Carolina

The Great Smoky Mountains are a magnificent place to visit in the western part of the state of North Carolina anytime from the Spring through the Fall. The mountains feature some of the most wonderful waterfalls anywhere in the country. In addition, they offer some great places for hikes and a relief for people who like to get out of the swealtering heat throughout most of the Deep South USA.

Asheville, North Carolina

Asheville, NC is a great place to enjoy fine art and innovative theater as it has many galleries, museums, and studios that showcase local and regional artists. Much of the fine art is on display outside for all to see. Some of the top galleries and theaters in Asheville are:

• Asheville Gallery of Fine Art
• Ashville Art Museum
• Thomas Wolfe Auditorium

Sunset at Omni’s Grove Park Inn

The Omni Grove Park Inn in Asheville is an historical resort hotel on the western-facing slope of Sunset Mountain within the Blue Ridge Mountains. It offers some amazing sunsets. Various Presidents of the United States visited the hotel. We are always amazed to see the fireplaces in the hotel which are large enough for a person to stand inside.

The Deep South USA: Tennessee

On the other side of the Great Smoky Mountains from Ashville begins the wonderful state of Tennessee. The first town in Tenneesse that we came across on our tour of the Deep South USA was Pigeon Forge, or the home of one of country music’s greatest stars, Dolly Parton and her Dollywood amusement park. As we crossed Tennessee we also visited Chatanooga and Nashville.

Pigeon Forge, Dollywood and the Appalachian Region

The eastern mountain region of Tennessee is often referred to as Appalachia. However the Appalachian region is actually much larger, following the Appalachian Trail from the lower Catskills in New York to the northern parts of Georgia. It is an area that is fortunate to be endowed with abundant natural resources. However, it has struggled economically. Pigeon Forge and the adjacent city of Gatlinburg have created an area that is helping build the economy by creating a very active tourist area. Dollywood has become the central attraction for the area. However, other tourist attractions, such as the Titanic Museum are also attracting tourists. Divers salvaged from the sunken vessel the violin, pictured below.

Chattanooga

Chattanooga is an important and a good place to visit for many reasons. Here are some of them:

• The City has a rich history and was a critical point for the railroads that connected the north and the south during the American Civil War. We recommend visiting the Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, the nations’s oldest and largest Civil War Park.
• Chattanooga is a hub for innovation and sustainability as it is home to the Tennessee Valley Authority.
• Chattanooga is a beautiful city that offers stunning views of the mountains and the river.  We enjoyed the scenery by taking the Lookout Mountain Incline Railway to the top of Lookout Mountain .
• The City is a fun and vibrant city that has something for everyone.  We totally enjoyed the Tenneessee Acquarium. The Tennessee Aquarium consists of two buildings: the River Journey and the Ocean Journey. The River Journey features exhibits on the freshwater habitats of the Appalachian Mountains, the Mississippi River Delta, and the Amazon Rainforest. The Ocean Journey features exhibits on the saltwater habitats of the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean Sea, and the Coral Reef. 

Nashville

Clearly, when you think of Nashville, you think of Country Music. Whether it was the greats like Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash or Merle Haggard, or today’s great’s like Little Big Town, Nashville is the place to go for music. The Grand Ole Opry in its current modern location, or in its former arena, the Ryman Theatre (where Robin is hanging out with some of the “golden performers”) is the place to go to hear great Country Music and an enjoyable performance.

Nashville’s Parthenon

Surprisingly, one of the great Hidden Gems in Nashville, that we certainly didn’t expect, was the Parthenon Museum. The Parthenon stands proudly as the centerpiece of Centennial Park, Nashville’s premier urban park. The re-creation of the 42-foot statue Athena is the focus of the Parthenon just as it was in ancient Greece. The building and the Athena statue are both full-scale replicas of the Athenian originals.

The South USA: Kentucky

Okay, like North Carolina, we don’t consider Kentucky to be part of the Deep South. But it is part of the South, and if you are in Nashville why not travel a little north to experience some great Bourbon and also take in some horse racing. The great bourbon places we visited are near Louisville, Lexington and the capital, Frankfort.

The Deep South, USA: Mississippi

When you talk about the Deep South, USA, clearly Mississippi and Alabama are at the heart of the Deep South. We visited two places in Mississippi, Natchez and Vicksburg.

Natchez

Natchez was the South’s second center for slave trading after Savanah, Georgia. It is still a great historic replica of the Deep South’s Antebellum Culture as demonstrated by many historic homes. It is a wonderful place to visit, not only to learn about the southern culture, but also to be treated very warmly. Windsor Ruins is a great example of the Antebellum Culture.

St, Mary Basilica

St. Mary Basilica, formerly St. Mary’s Cathedral, located in Natchez, Mississippi, United States, is a parish church in the Diocese of Jackson and Minor basilica of the Catholic Church. Built in the 1840’s, the Basilica in Natchez is recognized as an architectural masterpiece among Catholic churches in the south. 

Natchez Slave Trading

Decades before the Civil War, Natchez hosted the largest slave market in Mississippi known as the Forks of the Road Slave Market. There is a lot of history associated with this location. Follow the Forks of the Road Slave Market Link if you wish to learn more about it.

Vicksburg

Vicksburg is an historic city in Mississippi. It was built by French colonists in 1719, and is located on a high bluff on the east bank of the Mississippi River across from Louisiana. It is famous for the Battle of Vicksburg, one of the determining battles of the American Civil War. The Vicksburg National Military Park preserves the battle field. It contains 1325 historic monuments and markers. The Battle of Vicksburg in the US Civil War was a deciding battle for the North and for General Grant. We found our visit here to be surprisingly fascinating.

The Deep South, USA: Louisiana

Not surprisingly, when we visited Louisiana we stayed in New Orleans. Because New Orleans is a great place to visit for many reasons. It is one of the US’s great bucket-list cities, with a name that’s inseparable from cocktails, cooking, voodoo and all that jazz on Frenchmen Street. A weekend partying during Mardi Gras here is like a year in any other place – laced with rum and packed with revellers.  It’s also a haven for live music. New Orleans is widely acknowledged to be the birthplace of American jazz. Its musical textures brought in and shaped by slaves, Latin immigrants and gospel singers from across the South. 

In addition to touring Bourbon Street, taking an airboat ride and enjoying some beignats and a po’ boy sandwich, while there we ate at the famous Galatores restaurant. We also attended a New Orleans Saint football game and watched them beat their Tampa Bay Buccaneers rival.

Although Gallatoire’s does not accept reservations for Friday lunch, this must-do event; first come, first served.  They require jackets for the gentlement and as a result, women follow suit. We hear there are professional line sitters.  You must sit downstairs for the full experience, including watching the patrons, with their buckets of champagne and fun antics.  We sat at Jimmy Buffet’s table.

We consider Felix’s to be the best oyster bar on Bourbon Street, a favorite of locals with good reason.  You can cross the street for the “famous” oyster restaurant or come here for the real deal.  Barbecued oysters are the best ever.

Coquette, located in a two story dining in the Garden District features locally sourced contemporary Southern cuisine.  It has been nominated for a James Beard Foundation award.

One of the best museums in the world to learn more about WWII is the National WWII Museum in New Orleans. To learn more about WWII and the museum please visit our Museum Post.

The Deep South, USA: Alabama

No state is more in the Deep South, USA than Alabama.

Alabama is a great place to visit for many reasons. Alabama vacations offer everything from culinary contentment to outdoor adventure.  You can spend days on the beaches of the Gulf of Mexico, play golf on the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail, or explore some of the most historic places on the Civil Rights Trail. There are so many hidden treasures in this state.  It is a great place to learn about the Deep South Culture.

Montgomery

Dexter Avenue Baptist Church

Montgomery Museum of Fine Arts

Surprisingly, a true hidden gem in Montgomery is the Montgomery Museum of Fine Arts. Consequently, the museum’s mission is “Providing compelling experiences centered on human creativity that enhance individual well-being and add to the collective vibrance of the Region”. While in Montgomery we visited the museum which we greatly anjoyed. Please visit our Museums Post for more information and pictures of the museum.

Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail

In 2019, as part of our tour of the Deep South, we decided to spend some time playing golf in the State of Alabama. We played three of the courses and had a wonderful time.

Alabama’s Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail is the largest golf course construction project ever attempted. In the late 1980’s, two important things were on the mind of Dr. David Bronner, CEO of the Retirement Systems of Alabama: first, how to effectively diversify the assets of the state’s pension fund; and secondly, how to help the state of Alabama. His philosophy was this: “The stronger the Retirement Systems can make Alabama, the stronger the Retirement Systems will be.”

With that in mind, and borrowing a page from the movie, Field of Dreams, Bronner decided to “build it and they will come” — not to a baseball diamond in a cornfield, but to a dazzling collection of public golf courses in the state of Alabama.

We played three of the courses and had a wonderful time.